Alok Saini 12/19/23 Alok Saini 12/19/23

The Other Pune

Roaming the streets of Old Pune is like stepping into a different era. Here, time seems to linger, allowing one to savor each moment. The light doesn't gleam off modern structures but filters softly through the ancient banyans, casting dappled shadows. This part of the city isn't characterized by hurried steps or the constant buzz of technology. Instead, the air is filled with the sweet melody of life: the jingle of bells from the sugarcane juice stalls, the distant laughter of children playing, and the rhythmic clatter of a local artisan at work. The streets are a mosaic of colors and textures, from the vibrant clothes drying on balconies to the intricate patterns of old doors. Every corner offers a new visual symphony, a story waiting to be told. As I meandered through these lanes with my camera, I wasn't just capturing images; I was preserving the essence of a Pune that exists parallel to, yet so distinctly from, its modern counterpart. Each photograph I took is a tribute to this 'Other Pune' – a world where the past and present coexist in a beautiful, timeless dance.

Alok Saini 9/10/22 Alok Saini 9/10/22

Khajuraho - a photo essay

Come, step inside. Here reigns immortality.

Come, step inside. Here reigns immortality. Vishnu, Shiva…Gods of gods, one the nurturer, the other the destroyer. I enter the sanctum, bow before them, intricately carved heavenly dames and celestial creatures looking at me from the ceiling, and I hope some of their everlastingness rubs off on me.

On the outside, plays mortality.

On the outside, plays mortality. Human life, in all its glory, people singing, dancing, playing, getting ready, having sex, taking care of children, battles and wars…men, women, animals, animate, inanimate, everything life has to offer, painted with a chisel on stone. I stand in front of some carvings, marvelling at the details, the sheer effort it would have taken. I gawk at the erotic bits, smiling sheepishly, and look around to see everyone doing the same. Stepping back in awe, silence overpowers me as if something more significant than man brushed my elbow on the way to eternity.

Famous across the globe for their unique sculptures, the UNESCO World Heritage temples at Khajuraho hold a different meaning for me.

They are an ode to the unique Hindu worldview, where life is equal parts devotion and playfulness, where creation and destruction feed into each other, where mortality and immortality go hand in hand, carved on a simple block of sandstone on a simple temple wall.

Alok Saini 9/4/22 Alok Saini 9/4/22

A river runs through time

*Looking at Orchha from atop the Laxmi Narayan Temple*

A God worshipped as a king, a prince revered as a demi-god, temples that look like palaces and a palace abandoned by the ruling king because of a feud with the God-king…in magical, mystical Orchha, there are stories everywhere you turn.

It is as if the river that runs through it not only divides the town geographically but also somehow divides time into parallel streams. One half a real, living, breathing small town like any other in the Indian hinterland; the other a vision glimpsed through the mists of time.

First and foremost, Orchha is a temple town and the only place in the world where Lord Rama is worshipped as a King. A former palace, the 'Shri Raja Ram' temple is the focal point of the small town. Ideally, any itinerary should start with paying obeisance to the Lord, much like you would pay a visit to the king first if you were a traveller in medieval times. But remember, this is not a usual temple where you could enter any time and have a darshan (glimpse) of the deity. This is a King's palace, so you must adhere to specific times if you want His blessings.

*The cenotaphs are housed in a beautiful formal garden*

Once the royal visit has been taken care of, the whole town is yours to explore. No point in hiring a cab, battery driven e-rickshaws take you to all the major points and are pretty economical. Though I would suggest exploring the town on foot if you can.

*Crossing the bridge to the royal palace complex*

The erstwhile royal palace complex is directly opposite the Raja Ram temple and accessible by a bridge across the river. It houses some beautiful buildings, including one massive palace built for the former Mughal emperor, Jahangir, who may have stayed there for a day, if at all. At one corner of the town, by the banks of the river Betwa lie the beautiful chhatris (royal cenotaphs) of Bundela kings and at another corner, atop a hill, lies the gorgeous Laxmi Narayan temple. Home to some beautiful frescos, you can get a panoramic view of old Orchha from its top levels. Talking about temples, just next to the Raja Ram temple is the grand Chaturbhuj temple, unlike any other I've seen in India.

*Beautifully painted ceilings in the King’s and his senior most Queen’s rooms*

*Jahangir Mahal and the many views it offers*

The story goes that the senior queen beseeched Lord Rama to leave Ayodhya and come visit Orchha. After many months of rigorous worship, Rama agreed but with a few conditions. Two of those were that He would be called the actual king and that He would not move from the first place He sets foot in Orchha. By the time the queen reached Orchha, the Chaturbhuj temple was still under construction, so Rama's idol was housed in the royal kitchen as a temporary measure. But staying true to His word, Rama didn't move out of the palace, and it had to be converted into the Shri Raja Ram temple we see today. And in deference to Rama's second condition, the king moved his throne out of Orchha as he couldn't remain the reigning monarch anymore.

*Laxmi Narayan Temple and its beautiful frescoes*

Other places of interest are Prince Hardaul's samadhi (resting place) and his baithak (meeting place), which is housed in a formal, attractive garden in the middle of the town. This brave, pious prince was a beloved of the common folks but took his life to prove his innocence to his elder brother, the king, who suspected illicit relations between the prince and the queen. He is worshipped as a saint across the Bundelkhand region.

Orchha is a town made for stories and slow travel. Yes, you can visit all the main sights in a day, but it won't do justice to what this place offers.

Instead, let's sit on a ghat with the river waters lapping at our feet, the sun setting behind us over the marvellous chhatris. Or come, let's lose ourselves in the palatial Jahangir Mahal, where every window invites us to linger and admire the view. Or let's climb atop the Laxmi Narayan temple and see the old town from a distance…you may even sense a shimmer as if you were watching a vision through the mists of time.